So a little surfing, sleeping on the rock hard bed and who knows what else and the good old back decides to take a break. So we ask around and we find that a friend's mother went to this "doctor" at this "hospital" and the treatment for her back was so good she actually flew back (from California) to Sanya for a week just to get some treatment from this doctor.
As most of you know I have had two back surgeries already and a third really isn't a viable option. Regardless, I gave Western medicine a try (and some Eastern as well), so "Ru xiang sui su" or "when in Rome..."
I arrived at the hospital with my tutor to help translate. They reception desk asked for my name "Maike" and my age. I was then handed a slip of paper with a number on it and charged 9 RMB (about a buck fifty). We then proceeded upstairs to see the doc. We had an appointment and she was ready for us. She asked me what the problem was. I explained my back history, surgeries, and latest issues. She asked a few questions and then the tough question. With much back and forth and mime we determined that she wanted to know what was wrong with me - "why was I here?". Hmmm. I had just provided a very comprehensive 25 year history of my back issues, surgeries (with vertebrae numbers, dates and procedures),my latest MRI results and my current symptoms. I even volunteered my own neuro tests (walking on tippy toes, walking on heels) right there in front of her. How could she not know what was wrong with me at this point. I asked my translator "Okay, so what doesn't she understand?" he replied, "She wants to know why you are here?".
Hmmm. Okay. Time to get local I guess. "I am here because my back hurts", I say in my best Chinese. She replies in her best English "Where?". I point to the area and say "Zhe Li" (here). She says "okay, please lay down on the table". I comply and then my pants are going down and my shirt is going up and here come the needles.
The acupuncture I received in the US was great. It was performed by a DO who knew her stuff. But this lady and her needles - wow. I could not tell what she was doing as I could not see. My translator stayed and said she was just spinning the needles in her fingers. It felt like I was a puppet and she had strings to pull on my muscles. Her assistants then came in with the electricity and "moxibustion". For me, moxibustion is like a big piece of incense on a needle. Of course the needle gets hot, not hurting hot, but much more than warm. So after another 30 minutes the assistants remove the "moxibustion" and the doc is back with the needles. She is trying to get me to understand "needle" pain and "good" pain. I say I get it and learn to say Hao (good) when the needle lights up my nervous system throughout my back and leg. She is very happy with our progress in communication.
After two hours of hands on work, she has my back straight and relaxed with no pain. She tells me 'please exercise'. Hmmm. I reply, "exercise, like run around, stretch, jumping jacks?" I am looking for some clarification and I am sure I appear confused. She stares at me for a moment and then tells me to sit on a stool next to her desk. Bam. A needle right to the "third eye"
right in the middle of my forehead. I guess I looked unsettled and it was time to settle me down. The "third eye" needle placement can be used to relieve anxiety and stress. Anyway...after fifteen minutes I was ready to exercise.
I hopped, skipped and jumped around the room. Please note, the treatment room has 6 tables that look just like massage tables and have the hole in them for your face. There is the doctor's desk and that is about it. The windows are open and it is over 90 degrees in the room. The tables are about a foot apart. It is very clean and organized, if a bit crowded. She had five patients at the time. So I am in my 2' by 2' little area moving around like an overweight 75 year old following along to Richard Simmons. I am completely spaced out by the needle to my forehead (it makes me feel like a had a couple). I feel great. I look at her and smile. What else are my options? She smiles back and asks "better?". I say "dui". We both smile. She says come back in a few days as we should do ten treatments. "Okay" is my reply. I inquire about payment as the reception desk was not to excited about my Blue Cross card and the Travel Insurance company had never heard of Sanya. She says "cash is fine - 120 RMB please". So cabs to and from the hospital, entry fee and two hours of hands on treatment for $20. This is not my co-pay. This is all in.
I have been back for two more treatments and as we get acquainted the treatments get more focused and intense. After my third treatment I had to take about a three hour nap and could barely walk or talk afterward. Not because of pain, but because I felt so out of it and exhausted. So seven treatments to go and looking forward to more relief. Best news is the doctor is now also teaching me some Chinese during the treatments in return for me teaching her English. For me - amazing.
All smiles as I prepare for the needles
Where there is smoke...
Needles with "moxibustion" - combo incense and heat for the needles
Needles in my back with the moxibustion in full